As promised here is my step by step on how to build a fast charger for your Zero motorcycle. My configuration will let you charge at 34-38 amps up to 80% SOC from a j1772 EV plug or from a 14-50 NEMA RV plug. You can also do as I often do at home and charge with three 15A house circuits. There are lots of options, some that will only work with high current outputs like the NEMA and J1772 and there are others where the accessory charger can run off a single 110v wall outlet similar to the Quiq charger that Zero sells.
My How-to is specifically how to build the charger that I built, but I’d be happy to offer guidance on a variation, just email me at: firstname.lastname@example.org, message me on Facebook, or comment below. Nothing I discuss will connect without also running the onboard charger. The circuitry to do that is complicated and I didn’t use it myself so I choose not to advise in areas where my knowledge is limited. You can find this information on the electric motorcycle forum, but it might take a while.
- 4 ft 12ga power and ground wire. I used speaker wire so that the wires would remain together without being rapped or heat shrunk. 12ga Speaker Wire If you use more powerful supplies you will need a lower gauge number.
- Anderson components. Unfortunately all of these have to be bought separately. I found no place that sells everything as a kit. I bought all parts for the connector from Mouser.com they are linked below.
- x1 Sbs75x Brown Connector- It’s important that it is brown. Black will work in a pinch, but buy the brown one. Connector Body
- x2 Connector pins Heavy Duty Power Connectors SBS50 #10-12 AWG LOW DETENT CONTACTOR I know, the connector name is different, but they use the same pins.
- (optional, but recommended) x1 Cable clamp and handle for sbs75x. (This makes it harder to pull the wires out of the connector and also makes the connector easier to plug in and remove from the bike. Cable Clamp with Integral Handle
- x2 diodes at least 200V I bought these locally
- Two 14ga 5-15 cords (these are normal plugs that plug into your 110V outlet.) I bought these locally.
- Assortment of 10-14 gauge crimp connectors. Rings or open are fine. I prefer rings.
- A way to conncect the supplies to each other. I used Dual Locks and stacked them offset enough to access the screws.
- Crimper capable of going up to 10ga
- Precision Philips screwdriver
- Digital Voltmeter
- Soldering Iron, unless you use connectors for the diodes.*
- The first step is to set up the power supplies. Make sure they’re voltage is set independently.
Wire Colors Voltage adjustment
- Repeat the above steps for the second power supply.
- Next the Meanwell supplies must be wired together. This is in series. Negative of one supply
goes to the Anderson connector’s negative pin. Its positive goes to the second supply’s negative. Then the second supply’s positive goes to the Anderson connector’s positive pin.
- *The diodes are installed in parallel, negative to positive in order to prevent one power supply from damaging the other in the event of a failure. (Screenshot from Burton's video. His diodes are correct mine are not.)
Diodes and Series wiring. Screenshot from Burton's video.
- Crimp stripped back wires into the Anderson pins. This will take work unless you have a leveraging crimper. The pins are very thick.
- Ensure that you have the polarity correct before inserting the pins in the connector. Make sure that the notch is facing the direction of the spring. The spring inside the connector will latch into this. You should hear it. Lightly tug the wires to make sure they properly latched.
- If you bought the handle/ wire clamp (which you should have) attach the bottom part of the clamp to the connector with the supplied screws. Line up the wires so that they are in the pinch point formed between the top and bottom of the clamp, Then screw down the top part of the clamp. Don’t overdo it, you don’t want to cut the wires, but doing it this way makes it harder to pull the wires out of the connector as they are clamped into place and the handle gives you something to pull on other than the wires when disconnecting the plug from the bike.
Clamp/ Handle Installed
- You should now have a working quick charger. To make sure that everything is good, plug both supplies into the wall. DO NOT touch the terminals inside the Anderson connector. At minimum they are carrying 96V at maximum over 112. These numbers can kill you. Also be aware that plugging both supplies into one circuit will trip the circuit breaker unless its rated for 40A 110 or 20A 220.
- Use the voltmeter to ensure that polarity is correct and that the charger has reached your target voltage. If all is good, you now have a working fast charger. Plug it in and watch your charge time eta go from 4 hours to 1:45. Or from 8hrs to 3 something. Keep in mind that it will only charge at that rate up to 80%, but it makes it much quicker to get back home after riding out of your one charge range. I used mine two days ago to charge from 9% to 35% in 30 minutes after an impromptu ride up the mountain after work, while I drank a smoothie and watched a video on web accessibility (don’t judge! It’s interesting to me.)
|J1772 to Nema 5-15 x2 and C13 from Tucsonev.com|
* It is not necessary to install the diodes for the charger to work, exempting power loss to only one power supply, the only thing necessary to prevent reverse current is powering both supplies prior to plugging in the Anderson connector. With the connector unplugged, you have an open circuit and there is no current flow.